LIST
OF FIGURES
USIA
24.6 FT / 7.5 M SPECIFICATIONS
1.0
INTRODUCTION
6.0 AZIMUTH & ELEVATION DRIVE ACTUATORS
9.1 GENERAL
9.2 BEARINGS
9.3 ROTATION DRIVE CHAIN
9.4 ROTATION DRIVE GEAR BOX
9.5 RUST
9.6 STRUCTURAL BOLTS
9.7 ELECTRICAL
9.8 RUBBER BOOTS
9.9 FEED HORN SUPPORT CABLES
9.10 STRUCTURAL INSPECTION
Clarke Belt
Polar Axis
Look Angle
Satellite Positions
Clarke Belt
Locating Satellites
Concrete Pressure
Concrete Pressure
Concrete Pressure
Concrete Lateral
Pressure
Concrete Hardening
Time
Concrete &
Air Temperature
Concrete Forms
Proportions
by weight
Proportions
by volume
Counter Balance
Block
6x5/8 inch
bolt & nut
Main Mount
2 1/2 x3/4
inch bolt & nut
Rib Sections
1 &3/4x5/16
inch bolt, nut & washer
Rib Assembled
View inside
Hub
1x5/16 bolt
& nut
Rib to Hub
II
Pin Hook Collar
Rings Installed
Wind Brace
Cable Assembly
Stabilizer
Cable 1
Stabilizer
Cable 2
Stabilizer
Cable 3
Stabilizer
Cable 4
Diameter Cable
Order of Installation
1
Order of Installation
2
J-Hook Lay
Out
J-Hook
J-Hook Installation
Feed Horn Assembly
Feed Horn Support
Cables
D-Ring &
D-Ring Drive Unit
D-Ring &
D-Ring Drive Unit
D-Ring Installed
D-Ring Support
Arm Mounting Holes
D-Ring Limit
Switch
D-Ring Layout
Deicer Schematic
Deicer Cable
Lay O
USIA
24.6 FT / 7.5 M SPECIFICATIONS
| Diameter |
24.6 Feet / 7.5 Meters
|
| Frequency Bands(s) |
3.7 to 4.2 Ghz
|
| Minimum Gain |
@ 4 Ghz, 48.0 dBi
|
| Beam Width @ 4 Ghz |
± 0.34° @
-3 dB
|
| Maximum Depth |
1.281 Meters
|
| Feed Arrangement |
Prime Focus
|
| F/D Ratio |
0.36585
|
| Focal Distance |
2.743 Meters / 108 Inches
|
| Subtended Angle at Focus |
135.5°
|
| Antenna Noise Temperature |
Approx. 21° @ 30°
Elevation Angle
|
| Antenna Mount Type |
AZ / EL
|
| Azimuth Range |
180°
|
| Elevation Range |
0° to 90°
|
| Limit Switches |
Each limit independently
set to full range
|
| Temperature Range |
All Climate -40°
to 140° F
|
| Material, Reflector Surface |
Aluminum Mesh
|
| Material, Mount |
Galvanized Steel
|
| Wind Load @ 35 mph |
1,050 lb.
|
| Wind Load @ 70 mph |
10,200 lb.
|
| Operability, Max. Wind Fixed |
62.5 mph
|
| Survivability, Max. Wind in birdbath position. |
125 mph
|
| Number of Main Structural Members |
16
|
| Number of Sub-Structural Members |
112
|
| Shipping Weight |
3,200 lb.
|
NOTE: SPECIFICATIONS SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE
Telesat International Ltd. is a world leader in the design and manufacturing of satellite communications equipment with headquarters in Oregon City, Oregon. USA
Telesat International Limited U.S.A. (503) 656-2774
20122 South Molalla Avenue WATS (800) 331-2774
Oregon City, Oregon 97045-9021 FAX USA (503) 657-9945
TELEX 294858UR
CONGRATULATIONS!
Your purchase of this Telesat antenna will open the door to a whole new world of television enjoyment. To assure a trouble-free assembly, please read through this entire manual completely before beginning. You will find it helpful to familiarize yourself with the terms and concepts involved in the antenna assembly.
The antenna assembly consists of six steps or phases:
1. Construction of the Ground Mount and Counter Balances.
2. Installation of the Antenna Main Mount.
3. Construction of the Antenna Reflector Assembly
4. Craning the Antenna Reflector Assembly on the Antenna Main Mount.
5. Installation of the Azimuth Actuator and Elevation Actuator.
6. Installation of any optional devices i.e. Deicers, 180°
Rotation Drive Assembly, etc.
ACTUATORS: There are two actuators identified as the Elevation Actuator and the Azimuth Actuator. The Elevation Actuator is the longer of the two actuators.
BASE PLATE, RIB: This is the flat end of the rib which is bolted to the Antenna Hub.
FLASHING: One inch aluminum
flat bar used to cover the seam made when 2 pieces of mesh meet on top
of a rib.
| HUB: The Antenna Hub is that part of the antenna where all rib sections in the antenna reflector join together. The Hub is a 12 inch in diameter steel cylinder that forms the center of the reflective surface. |
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| J-HOOK: They are short lengths of stainless steel wire with a pre-bent hook on one end. They are used to secure the screen to the frame work. |
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| RIB: There are 16 aluminum ribs that when assembled form the parabolic curve of the Antenna Reflector Assembly. Each rib contains two sections, the Base Rib which is attached to the antenna Hub, and the Point Rib which attaches to the Base Rib. |
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| RING: There are seven ring sets containing sixteen pieces each. There are three sets of Non-Structural Rings, and four sets of Structural Rings. These rings provide structural support for the antenna reflector and provide a medium for attaching the reflective surface for receiving the satellite signal. |
Structural
Non-Structural |
REFLECTIVE SURFACE:
This consists of aluminum radar mesh screen and a solid aluminum piece
which, when applied, is the reflective surface for receiving the satellite
signal.
| SHIM: The shim is a small piece of aluminum flat stock. The shims, when called for, are used between the hub and the ribs and/or the rib and the ring. |
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| PINHOOK: The Pinhook is made from round tubular aluminum and has several bends in it. The feed horn is attached at one end. |
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PINHOOK SUPPORTS:
Pinhook
Supports are square pieces of aluminum tubing with an angle bent on
one end. They are used for supporting the Pinhook.
| PINHOOK COLLAR: The Pinhook Collar is clamped over the end of the Pinhook Extension and is used to secure the Pinhook Supports to the Pinhook Extension. |
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POLAR MOUNT
Not all polar mounts on the market are considered true polar mounts. Some will only accurately track a few satellites. For exact tracking of the Clarke Belt from the eastern to western horizons, an additional adjustment must be included on the mount. The amount of declination required at any location will vary and it must be set correctly during the initial installation of the dish and mount.
Figure 1 Clarke Belt **
AZ/EL MOUNTS
The AZ/EL mount requires the independent
adjustment of both the elevation and azimuth in order to receive any particular
satellite. Since it requires two adjustments in order to switch satellites,
it is more difficult to manually maneuver. But once you have done it a
few times it is not a very difficult procedure. AZ/EL mounts can also be
adapted for remote control with the addition of two separate electric motors.
Figure 2 Polar Axis **
Figure 3 Look Angle **
**Note: DISH will point south in
northern hemisphere and north in southern hemisphere.
1.3
NORTH AMERICAN DOMESTIC SATELLITE POSITIONS
| Name | Code | Longitude |
| Spacenet 2 | S2 | 69.0 |
| Satcom 2R | F2 | 72.0 |
| Galaxy 2 | G2 | 74.0 |
| Satcom 4R | F4 | 82.0 |
| Telstar 302 | T2 | 85.0 |
| Spacenet 3 | S3 | 87.0 |
| Galaxy 3 | G3 | 93.5 |
| Telstar 301 | T1 | 96.0 |
| Galaxy 6 | G6 | 99.0 |
| Spacenet 4 | S4 | 101.0 |
| Anik E2 | AD | 107.3 |
| Anik E1 | A2 | 111.1 |
| Morelos 1 | M1 | 113.5 |
| Morelos 2 | M2 | 116.8 |
| Spacenet 1 | S1 | 120.0 |
| Telstar 303 | T3 | 123.0 |
| Galaxy 5 | G5 | 125.0 |
| ASC-1 | AS | 128.0 |
| Satcom 1R | F3 | 131.0 |
| Galaxy 1 | G1 | 133.0 |
| Satcom C1 | F1 | 137.0 |
| Satcom C5 | F5 | 139.0 |
Figure 4 Satellite Positions
2 1/2 inch open end wrenches
2 7/16 inch open end wrenches
2 8 inch adjustable open end wrenches
1 Side cutters
1 7 inch pliers
1 Pop rivet insertion tool
1 Flat blade screw driver
1 Tin snips
1 25 foot tape measure
1 50 foot tape measure
1 Electric drill motor
1 9/32 inch drill bit
1 1/8 inch drill bit
1 Inclinometer
1 Compass
1 6 Foot (2M) step ladder
1 20 Foot (6M) extension ladder
1 Set of allen wrenches
In addition, the following items
are required prior to starting the antenna construction:
Choosing a site for the antenna is important. The location must allow an unobstructed view of the area of the sky where the desired satellites are to be found. In general, the satellites are located in a "belt" which begins on the horizon due east and west and extends upward reaching an angle above the southern horizon in the northern hemisphere or above the northern horizon in the southern hemisphere. The maximum angle above the horizon is approximately equal to 90° minus the receiving site latitude. Thus, for an installation at 20° North latitude, satellites can be found in a belt beginning due east on the horizon, extending upward to about 70° in the south, and continuing to the west horizon. Specific satellites are located in stationary positions along this belt. It is only necessary to "see" the belt in the direction of the desired satellites; not necessarily along its full length. Note that as the direction of the desired satellite approaches east and west, it is necessary to have a clear view lower and lower towards the horizon. It will not be possible to receive certain satellites which are located behind buildings, trees, etc.
Figure 5 Clarke Belt
Note: DISH will point south in northern hemisphere and north in southern hemisphere.
If satellite is West of the antenna location, add Azimuth Difference to 180.
If satellite is East of the antenna
location, subtract Azimuth Difference from 180.
Note: East Longitude and South Latitude are negative values.
EXAMPLE
Site Longitude = 10 East "A" = 1 - -10 = 11 degrees
Site Latitude = 45 North "B" = 45 degrees
Satellite Longitude = 1 West Azimuth Difference = 16
Elevation Angle = 37
Azimuth = 360 - 16
Azimuth = 344 degrees
Before assembly of the antenna, Telesat recommends a complete inventory and inspection of all components of your new satellite antenna. Locate an area close to the assembly site and arrange all parts in a neat and orderly fashion with all like parts together. You can use the packing list to help locate and identify all of the components.
2.0
CONCRETE, CONCRETE PAD & COUNTER BALANCES
1. Liquid concrete before it hardens is called plastic. When you place plastic concrete in forms to a depth of one foot it will bear sideways against the forms with a pressure of approximately 150 pounds per square foot.
Figure 7 Concrete pressure
2. Plastic concrete exerts the same side pressure on forms regardless of their width.
Note: Form pressure does not depend on wall thickness to any significant degree.
3. As you add more plastic concrete
to forms, the pressure will build up toward the bottom at about the rate
of 150 pounds per foot of depth. This will be true as long as all concrete
remains plastic.
EXAMPLE:
Eight feet of plastic concrete bears on the bottom foot of forms with a pressure of 8 x 150 pounds or 1200 pounds per square foot.
4. As concrete hardens, lateral pressure
on forms disappears.
With all
concrete
As bottom foot
Second foot of
in plastic state.
sets up.
concrete hardens.
Figure 10 Concrete Lateral Pressure
5. Plastic concrete hardens faster
with increase of air temperature.
EXAMPLE:
At 70 degrees F. temperature, concrete sets in approximately 1 hour. At 40° F. air temperature, concrete sets in about 1 - 3/4 hours.
Figure 11 Concrete Hardening Time
6. At a given air temperature, the faster the pour, the greater the form pressure.
7. Determining factors of form pressure
then are temperature and rate of pour.
Figure 12 Concrete & Air Temperature.
Concrete Forming Basics Continued:
8. The plywood used for concrete forms will carry more weight or pressure when it is supported across the surface grain - or the strong way - than supported with the surface grain - or the weak way.
EXAMPLE #1:
Figure 13 Concrete Forms
Description:
A. Related work specified elsewhere:
1. Concrete reinforcement
2. Cast in place
Quality Assurance:
A. Standards:
1. "Recommended practices for concrete form work", ACI 347.
2. "Field reference manual", ACI SP-15
B. Layout Forms in the pattern indicated
on drawings.
Wood form panels for all architectural at all exterior exposed parts:
B. Lumber: Douglas Fir, J & P, Standard Grade or better.
Fabrication:
B. Construct forms to tight leak-proof joints, plumb, square and true. Reinforce sufficiently to resist "Boiler Plating" and to allow high frequency vibration.
C. Use materials in such a way as to result in smooth, continuous sizes, installed in the largest practical sizes to minimize joints.
D. Secure bolts, inserts and other embedded items so they will not be displaced during the placing and compacting operations. Set embedded bolts and sleeves for slab-mounted equipment with the aid of templates from manufacturer's layouts or shop drawings.
E. Locate and form pits, chases, or openings as required various pieces of equipment. Verify unknown sizes before forming.
F. Use form board coated with releasing agent if necessary to maintain uniform texture and appearance at exposed to view surfaces.
G. Do not use patched forms for concrete
surfaces, which will be exposed to view. When forms are extended for successive
concrete placement, clean surfaces, remove fins and laitance, and tighten
forms to close joints. Align and secure to avoid offsets. Reuse of badly
patched or damaged panels will not be permitted.
Description:
1. "Specifications for structural concrete for buildings", ACI 301.
2. "Recommended practice for measuring, mixing, transporting and placing concrete", ACI 304.
3. ASTM C-94, C-143, C-150, C-231, C-260, C-309, C-494
4. "Standard recommended practice for cold weather concreting", ACI 306.
5. "Standard recommended practice for hot weather concreting", ACI 305.
6. Terms and conventions set forth in PCA "Design and control of concrete mixtures", especially chapter 12, "Structural lightweight concrete", and chapter 15, "Special types of concrete".
C. Use only one brand of cement for concrete work throughout project.
D. Concrete, which does not attain 60 percent of its 28 day strength after 7 days cure, shall be considered defective.
Normal weight concrete:
B. Admixtures:
2. Water reducing, meeting ASTM C 494 requirements.
3. Do not use admixtures containing chlorides.
D. Slump: Slabs; 3-inch maximum walls, footings, columns; 4 inch maximum.
E. Water: Clean, free from oil, acid or organic matter.
F. Proportion mix to produce 28 day compressive strength of actual samples not less than 3000 PSI for slabs and footings.
1. Meet ASTM C 309 requirements, Type 1, clear.
2. Acceptable products: West Chemical Company "FILPORE", SYMONS "QUAD-CURE", Chem Masters "KUREX 3", Grace "HORN CLEAR SEAL", Nox-Chem "ABCO 1389", or approved.
B. Sheet metal used as a curing membrane:
Vapor barrier.
General:
B. Earth forms for footing may be used only on written approval from architect. Undercutting prohibited.
C. Prior to placing concrete, check to see that reinforcement is free of loose mill scale, oil, dirt, or other material that might destroy or reduce the bond.
D. Before placing concrete on grade
or fill, verify that electrical conduit under slab have undergone tests
and approvals.
B. Work concrete around reinforcement
and other embedded items and into all parts of forms using mechanical vibrating
equipment, hand rodding and tamping. Minimize tamping at flat work.
1. Begin initial curing as soon as free water has disappeared from surfaces. Where possible, keep continuously moist for not less than 72
hours.
B. Flat work:
1. Apply a steel trowel finish to interior slabs; ACI 301 Class A Tolerance.
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Figure 14 Proportions by weight
Figure 15 Proportions by volume
The Ground Mount is the concrete pad consisting of concrete and rebar that is the base for mounting the antenna.
In placement of the concrete Ground Mount, choose a location clear of any obstructions. The figure below shows the minimum area required in azimuth for a full 180 degrees of movement.
Figure 16 Range of movement in Azimuth
The radius of the circle shown above is 176 inches (447 cm).
Before beginning the construction of the Ground Mount, study the sections 2.1 Concrete Forming Basics, 2.2 Concrete Form Work, 2.3 Cast-in-Place Concrete and the diagrams A1 through A6 in the back of this manual.
You will need to know your minimum look angle to the desired satellite(s) to determine which ground mount lay out to construct. In the back of this manual you will find one diagram for a 0° look angle and one for a 20° look angle. Choose the proper look angle and diagram to construct your ground mount. By choosing the 20° ground mount it is important to understand that the minimum look angle to any satellite will be 20° . If a look angle lower than 20° is desired then construct your Ground Mount using the diagram for a 0° ground mount.
It is also important to make sure that the concrete Ground Mount is oriented so that it is pointing to true north or true south depending on whether the antenna site is located in the northern or southern hemisphere. If the antenna site is located in the northern hemisphere, the concrete Ground Mount must point to true south. If the antenna site location is in the southern hemisphere, then the concrete Ground Mount must point to true north.
One further point is to be sure that the site selected is free of all obstructions that may hinder the movement of the satellite antenna.
Study this section and appendix A1 through A6 carefully. Improper placement of the concrete ground mount can hinder the performance of the antenna. Make sure that in orienting the concrete Ground Mount that true north/south is used and not magnetic north/south. In some areas of the world the magnetic deviation from true north or south is large enough that if it were used for the placement of the concrete Ground Mount, the look angle to all satellites above the horizon could not be achieved.
The Counter Balances are concrete blocks formed around a steel frame of 3/4 inch rebar and 3 & 1/2 inch box tubing.
The concrete Counter Balances help to counter balance the weight of the Antenna Reflector and to assist in the raising and lowering of the Antenna Reflector.
Start by building two concrete forms
using a minimum of 1/2 inch plywood to form a box 12 inches by 12 inches
square and 37 inches deep. Note that all dimensions for the box are dimensions
on the inside of the box. Next place a frame work around the outside of
the forms made of wood or steel strapping sufficient enough to prevent
the forms from splitting when filled with concrete.


Figure 17 Counter Balance Frame Figure 18 Counter Balance Block
When the Counter Balance forms are complete, insert the rebar end of both of the Counter Balance frames into the forms as shown. Maintain a 2 inch clearance between the top of the concrete and the bottom of the 3 1/2 inch steel tubing part of the Counter Balance frames. The 3 & 1/2 inch tubing of the Counter Balance frame must be positioned so that it forms an angle 90° to the concrete form.
Follow the concrete mixing tables in section 2.3.4: Cast In Place Concrete Page *.
Once the concrete is thoroughly mixed, pour the concrete into the Counter Balance forms to the pre described fill point. Drying time will depend on the prevailing temperature at the construction site. It is suggested that the pouring of the Counter Balances be performed prior to the construction of the antenna to allow ample curing time for the concrete. By removing the forms from the concrete 24 hours after pouring, curing time can be substantially decreased.
When the Counter Balances have completely cured and the Antenna Reflector is in position on the Main Mount, install the Counter Balances to the Antenna Reflector A-Frame of the Hub Assembly. This can be accomplished by using a small crane or a winch to raise the Counter Balances to a height sufficient to slide them into place.
The 3 & 1/2 inch box tubing on the Counter Balance is
inserted into the 4 inch box tubing on each side of the Main Mount
until the 2 inner holes line up with the outer holes. Once the Counter
Balances are in place secure them with the (2) 6 inch x 5/8 inch bolts
and nuts provided.
Figure 19 "6 inch by 5/8 inch bolt and nut"
Although the Main Mount Assembly can be craned into position, it is also possible to lift it into position. This task requires 5 to 7 men. To perform this task lay the Main Mount Assembly on the ground directly in front of the antenna Concrete Pad with the Base Plate of the Mount Assembly resting on top of the Concrete Pad. Next lay one Main Mount Leg on each side of the Ground Mount.
Note: At this point the Ground Mount should be in place with the Rotation Plate and Actuator Plate secured into position.
Figure 20 Main Mount
Using 4-5 men, walk the mount to an
upright position making sure that the bearing in the Main Mount Base
Plate aligns and slides over the Rotation Plate Shaft. Once
in an upright position it can be held into place by 3-4 men. Now using
2-3 men lift and bolt the legs into place. If anchor bolts were used in
the Concrete Pad, set each leg over these bolts and hand thread
nuts so leg can't lift. Then fasten the top end of the legs to the Leg
Mount of the Main Mount using the 2 1/2 x 3/4 inch bolts and
nuts provided.
Figure 21 "2 1/2 x 3/4 inch bolt and nut"
It is critical to insure that care is taken during this next step. Using a level or an inclinometer on the front and side of the two inch round of the Leg Mount on the Main Mount to insure it is perfectly vertical. If the Main Mount is not perfectly vertical, then shift the Main Mount in a direction to bring it vertical. Once the Main Mount is vertical proceed with tightening down the bolts in the Main Mount Legs were they attach to the Leg Mount of the Main Mount and the anchor bolts in the Concrete Pad that secure the bottom end of each Main Mount Leg.
If steel mounting plates were used instead of anchor bolts in the Ground Mount, proceed with welding the bottom of the Main Mount Legs to the steel plates. When theMain Mount is completely secure, use your level or inclinometer once again to verify that the Main Mount is still aligned vertically. Once this has been verified, finish by tightening the two set screws on each of the two bearings on the steel shaft attached to the Main Mount Leg Mount and the two set screws on the bearing in the Base Plate of the Main Mount. Finally safety gussets need to be installed on to the mount. Using the figure below weld the four Rotation Plate Safety Gussets into place.
Figure 22 Safety gussets
CAUTION! The Antenna Reflector Assembly must be secured during it's construction. The shape of the Antenna Reflector Assembly lends itself to being highly prone to levitate off of the ground during moderate to high winds. During the construction of the Antenna Reflector Assembly, if high winds are present, and while the Antenna Reflector Assembly is left unattended, secure the assembly on four opposite sides where the point section and the base section of the rib join using rope or other suitable material. Secure the other end of these ropes to a suitable anchor or other suitable structure to prevent the Antenna Reflector Assembly from being damaged, or anything in it's path from being damaged should sudden or unexpected high winds occur.
Caution! The antenna's reflective surface screen is highly susceptible to damage. Be sure to keep it clear of the work area and protected from the wind until it is needed.
The antenna Hub is pre-assembled at the factory with the exception of the Hub Support. The Hub Support is a 3/4 inch steel bar approximately 39 inches long with a 3 inch by 1 inch drilled flange welded onto each end at 45 degree angles. In the figure below the Hub Support is the diagonal bar attached to the bottom and top of the Hub. Use the figure below to install the Hub Support between the top of the Hub and the Hub "T".
Figure 23 Hub Assembly
Figure 24 Hub Support
Ribs come in two sections; Point Rib and Base Rib. They are numbered 1 to 16. These numbers can be found on the top side at each end of every rib section. Before assembly on to the Hub, bolt the two matching rib sections together using 5/16 x 1 3/4 bolts, nuts and washers. Tighten bolts to 12 ft/lb. See Figures 25 and 27 below.
Figure 26 "1 & 3/4 x 5/16 Nut, Bolt and Washer"
Note: It is important not to over tighten this bolt over 12 ft./lb. as this may crush the rib tubing.
As mentioned previously, ribs are
numbered 1 to 16. Corresponding numbers can be found inside the top rim
of the antenna Hub. See fig. 28
Starting with Rib #1, find the corresponding number inside the Hub and bolt the rib section to the Hub using 5/16 x 1 inch stainless steel bolts and nuts.
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Figure 29 "1x5/16 Bolt and Nut"
Figure 30 Rib to Hub
Insert the bolt through the top hole located in the channel base of the rib and then through the hub wall. Attach nut snugly but do not tighten at this time. Now insert the second bolt in the same manner through the bottom hole, securing the bolt with the nut.
Continue attaching rib sections to the Hub starting at position #2 and working your way around to position 16.
Figure 31 Rib to Hub 2
Shims (if needed) will be placed between the rib section and hub. If a top shim is needed, place the shim just above the hex bolt. If a bottom shim is needed, place the shim just below the bolt. Check your shim list to see which ribs (if any) need to be shimmed. Once all ribs and required shims are in place, using a torque wrench, tighten all bolts to 12 foot pounds.
Figure 32 Shim Insertion
4.4 PINHOOK EXTENSION ASSEMBLY
Slide the Pinhook Collar over the unthreaded end of the Pinhook Extension 3 inches from the end and secure into place using (2) 5/16 x 1 inch bolts. Then screw Pinhook Extension with Pinhook Collar into the center of the Hub.
Figure 33 5/16 x 1 inch bolt.
Figure 34 Pinhook Collar
Figure 35 Pinhook Extension
There are seven sets of rings for
the antenna. Of these seven, four are classified as Structural,
and three are classified as Non-Structural.
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Ring #3 |
Ring #1 |
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Ring #5 |
Ring #2 |
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Ring #6 |
Ring #4 |
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Ring #7 |
Figure 36 Rings
Figure 37 Rings Installed
When fastening a ring, the top of each ring should be level with the top of the rib.
Install Structural Rings first beginning with ring number #7.
Check the shim list to see if any shims are required for the rings. When facing the center of the dish, the shim on the #7 Structural Ring (if needed), will be on your right. Loosen the nut from the bolt and fasten to the rib.
Do not completely tighten down the nuts until all #7 Structural Rings but one are in place. When you begin to tighten down the rings it is important to make sure that the ring is aligned with the ring on the opposite side of the antenna. Do this by looking across the top of a ring at one end as if it were a gun sight. Looking across the edge it should point to the same ring on the opposite side of the antenna. If it does not point to the same ring on the opposite side of the antenna it can be turned slightly until it does. Once you are satisfied with the alignment, tighten all rings(12 ft./lb.), then install the final ring. Make sure that while tightening the ring bolts that you don't distort the shape of the ring. If it begins to distort, after tightening, back off the nut a quarter turn and this will relieve the pressure on the ring causing it to distort.
Once you are finished with structural
ring #7 proceed onto Structural Ring #6, #5 and #3. When the structural
rings are in place begin with the Non-Structural Rings. First #4
then #2 and finally #1.
The Wind Bracing consists of four pieces of box tubing approximately 116 inches long. Using the diagram below, attach each brace to the bolt welded on each end of the Hub.
Bracing #1: Thread Bracing #1 through Rib #6, through Rib #7 and through Rib #8 and connect to Rib #9 at Ring #4.
Bracing #2: Thread Bracing #2 through Rib #12, through Rib #11 and through Rib #10 and connect to Rib #9 at Ring #4.
Bracing #3: Thread Bracing #3 under Rib #14, through Rib #15 and through Rib #16 and connect to Rib #1 between Ring #4 and Ring #5.
Bracing #4: Thread Bracing #4 under Rib #4, through Rib #3, through Rib #2 and connect to Rib #1 between Ring #4 and Ring #5.
Figure 38 Wind Braces
The Stabilizer Cables are attached to I-Bolts at the base of the Hub A-Frame. They are marked with colored tape. These colors are important. You will need to match the color of the tape with the colored markings on the ribs, while threading the cable through the rib sections. See Figure 39 "Brace and Cable Layout".
Stabilizer Cable #1 - Black
Stabilizer Cable #2 - Green
Stabilizer Cable #3 - Brown
Stabilizer Cable #4 - Blue
Diameter Cable - Red
Each Stabilizer Cable will be fastened at one end, to a steel ring welded on each end of the base of the Hub A-Frame.
Note: Do not cut or remove this
cable from the ring.
Stabilizer Cable #1 Following
the BLACK markings, thread the cable through Rib #6, through
Rib
#7, through Ring #5 between Rib #7 and Rib #8,
through Rib #8. Do not proceed outward any farther. Go through
Ring
#5 between Rib #8 and Rib #9, through Rib #9,
through Rib #10, through Rib #11, through Rib #12,
and fasten to the steel ring at the base of the Hub A-Frame with
the cable clamps provided.
Fig 40 Stabilizer Cable 1
Figure 41 Stabilizer Cable 2
Stabilizer Cable #3 Following
the BROWN markings, thread the cable under Rib #13, through
Rib
#14, through Rib #15 through Ring #5 between
Rib #15
and Rib #16, through Rib #16. Do not proceed outward any
farther. Go through Ring #5 between Rib #1 and
Rib #16.
Pull downward and fasten to the steel ring at the base of the
Hub A-Frame
with the cable clamps provided.
Stabilizer Cable 3
Stabilizer Cable #4 Following
the BLUE markings, thread the cable under Rib #5, through
Rib
#4, through Rib #3 through Ring #5 between Rib #2
and Rib #3, through Rib #2. Do not proceed
outward any farther. Go through Ring #5 between Rib #1 and
Rib#2.
Pull downward and fasten to the steel ring at the base of the Hub A-Frame
with the cable clamps provided.
Figure 42 Stabilizer Cable 4
Diameter Cable: Thread the
Diameter
Cable around the antenna reflector through all ribs just above Ring
#3 by following the Red stickers. Connect the two ends using the
tensioner attached to one end of the cable. Tighten the cable using the
tensioner and then fasten the loose end of the cable with a cable clamp.
Figure 43 Diameter Cable
There are 16 sections with 5 different pieces in each section to the reflective surface, 8 Pinhook Supports and 32 pieces of Flashing. See figure 44 and figure 45.

Screen sections - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14, 15, 16 ,19, 20, 21, 22
Solid Points - 9, 10, 17
Flashing - 11, 12, 15, 16, 23, 24
Pinhook Support - 18
Figure
44 Order of Installation 1
Figure
45 Order of Installation 2
Alpha-Numeric = Cable Ties or bent wire, Numeric = 'J' Hooks
NOTE: The following text makes reference to a J-hook. These J-hooks are used to fasten the screen to the antenna to form a reflective surface. However over the center of each Structural Ring, the J-hooks are not suitable as they will not go around the structural part of the ring. In these areas, a piece of stainless steel wire (supplied) cut to 8 inches long is bent in half and pushed through the screen and its two ends twisted together on the underside of the Structural Ring. If this is not preferable, cable ties are also supplied and can be used as well. See figure 46 on page * .
Beginning with Screen #2, lay the Screen between Rib #1 and Rib #2. Screen #2 should overlap Ring #1, Ring #2 and Ring #3. The sides of the screen should follow the sides of the ribs.
To fasten the screen to the rings; locate Ring #1, drop the straight end of the J-hook in the center of the screen directly over Ring #2.
Figure 47 "J - Hook"
The bent end of the "J-hook" catches the mesh and the top edge of the ring section. With pliers, the straight end of the "J'-hook" is bent around the bottom of the ring. See figure 48. Follow the sequence according to drawing in figure 46 on page *.
Locate Ring #2, drop one "J-hook" in the center, then follow the sequence according to Figure 46. Note: Do not put in "J-hooks" on Ring #3 at this time.
Do this with the rest of the J-hooks. You must always begin in the center of the screen and work outward to avoid wrinkles in the screen mesh.
Proceed upward with Screen #3. This screen tucks under the top of Screen #2 and over Ring #3, Ring #4 and Ring #5. At this time you may now secure Screen #2 with Screen #3 to Ring #3, but do not put any J-hooks into Ring #5 yet. Secure in place with J'-hooks as explained previously. You should use at least 8 J-hooks on Ring #3 and 11 J-hooks on Ring #4.
Continue this procedure upward with Screen #4. This screen tucks under the top of Screen #3 and over Ring #5 and Ring #6. Secure with J-hooks as before. Ring #5 will use at least 10 J'-hooks and at least wire ties or (4 plastic ties) in place of the J-hook. See figure 46.
Place Screen #5 into position tucking under Screen #4 and over Ring #6 and Ring #7 and extending to the outer edge of each rib section. Starting with Ring #6, use at least 8 J'-hooks. Again starting in the center and working outward on both sides. Secure into place.
Repeat screen process between Rib #2 and Rib #3.
Next install two Solid Points between Rib #1 and Rib #2 and between Rib #2 and Rib #3. Secure with 1/8 inch pop rivets - 4 inches on center. You will need to drill the holes for the pop rivets using a 5/32 inch drill bit.
The next step is to install two pieces of Flashing. The Flashing is pre-drilled for the rivets. Use these holes as a guide for drilling the holes through the screen rib sections. The Flashing is placed over the rib section where the screen join together. Start from the outside edge of Rib #2, lay Flashing piece on the top side of the rib covering the overlapping edges of each screen, use the pre-drilled holes in the Flashing as a guide and drill a 5/32 inch hole through the screen and through the rib. Attach the Flashing to the rib using an 1/8 inch pop rivet. Continue downward towards the center of the antenna making sure to keep the Flashing aligned over the rib and screen edges. Continue in this manner until the full length of both pieces of flashing are attached.
Repeat the screen and Flashing process between Rib #3 and Rib #4 according to the "Order of Installation" see figure 45 (Page 40).
Note: At this point you are ready to install one of the Pinhook Supports. The Pinhook Supports help to support and keep the Pinhook and Feed Horn Assembly centered on the antenna's reflective surface. For this reason care must be taken while installing the Pinhook Supports. It is critical that you do not pull the Pinhook Extension out of center while installing the Pinhook Supports. It may be noted however that you may need to slightly pull the Pinhook to center while installing the Pinhook Supports as well. One way of doing this is by using an inclinometer.
To use an inclinometer: first place the inclinometer vertically on the exterior side wall of the antenna Hub on the exact same side of the antenna where you are installing the PinhookSupport. Take a reading and record it. This reading will be used to verify that your Pinhook Extension Support Braces are installed correctly. The reading should be equal to the reading you will take with the inclinometer placed vertically on the Pinhook Extension. Remember this first reading taken on the Antenna Hub is only good for one Pinhook Support. You will have to take a new reading off the side wall of the antenna Hub on the side of the current PinhookSupport that you are installing for each support.
First connect one Pinhook Support above Rib #3 to the Pinhook Collar on the Pinhook Extension and let the lower end of the support rest on top of Rib #3. Check to see that the Pinhook Extension is aligned with the center of the dish as explained above then secure the lower end of the Pinhook Support over Rib #3 by drilling a 9/32 inch hole through the hole in the Pinhook Support through the under-lying flashing, screen and all the way through the rib. Using a 1 3/4 x 1/4 bolt and nut, bolt through the Pinhook Support, Flashing and Rib.
Repeat the process of installing screen,
Solid
Points, Flashing and the Pinhook Supports as per "Order
of Installation" figure 45, until the antenna's reflective surface is completed.
Install the Feed Horn to the Pinhook using the 1/4 inch x 1 inch hex bolt and two self tapping screws provided. Place the Feed Horn Cover Ring over the Feed Horn and down on top of the Feed Horn Scalar. Slide the Pinhook mounting plate between the Feed Horn Scalar and the cover ring. Line up one hole in the cover ring, the slot in the Pinhook mounting plate, and one hole in the Feed Horn Scalar. Insert (1) 1/4 inch x 1 inch hex bolt through the Feed Horn Scalar, mounting plate and cover ring. Thread on the 1/4 inch nut. Next install the (2) #8 hex screws through the cover ring, Pinhook mounting plate, and the Feed Horn Scalar.
Note: Do not install the Pinhook
on to the Pinhook Extension until the Antenna Reflector has
been mounted to the antenna Main Mount.
After alignment, add self tapping screws.
Figure 49 Feed Horn Assembly
The Feed Horn Cable Supports consist of four pre-fabricated stainless steel stranded cables used to help hold the Feed Horn in place in adverse weather.
Each cable has a stainless steel eye-bolt on one end and a crimped loop on the other end. Also on the cable is a turn-buckle for adjusting the cables. The end with the crimped loop in it is bolted to one of the four holes on the Feed Horn Scalar with stainless steel 1 x 1/4 inch bolts and nuts provided.
Feed Horn Support Cables are attached to an eye-bolt 31 1/8 inches from the end of Rib #1, Rib #5, Rib #9 and Rib #13.
Begin by locating Rib #1, Rib #5, Rib #9 and Rib #13. Measure and mark from the outside edge of each rib 31 1/8 inches on the top side of the rib tubing above the Flashing. Next drill a 1/4 inch hole through the top of the rib at an angle 90° to the curve on the rib.
The Feed Horn Support Cables are installed so that the turnbuckles are located near the Feed Horn.
Remove one of the two hex nuts from the eye bolt on the Feed Horn Support Cable and thread the other one up all the way to the shoulder of the eye-bolt. Now insert one eye-bolt into each of the four holes just drilled and replace the hex nut removed and finger tighten. Repeat this procedure until all Feed Horn Support Cables are attached.
To adjust the Feed Horn Support
Cables to proper alignment begin tightening the turn buckle on each
cable. Adjust the Feed Horn Support Cable opposite of any obvious
lean and finish these adjustments by measuring from the end of each rib.
Adjust all four Feed Horn Support Cables until each measurement
is the same distance.
4.11 INSTALLATION OF EDGE GUARD
Locate the following three marked packages:
A. Edge guards (16 pieces)
B. Backing Strips (16 pieces)
C. Aluminum Pop Rivets (approx. 110 pieces)
Position the first section of edge guard on top of the screen and between two ribs. On each end of the edge guard there is a hole through the tab, one of which is larger than the other. Verify the holes are aligned with the center of each upper rib tube. Place the backing strip with the pre-punched holes under the screen and edge guard making sure holes in both the backing strip and edge guard are aligned. The angle of the edge guard should be against the edge of the screen. By moving the pop rivet slightly it should drop through the screen, however; if it does not then drilling to clear the screen may be necessary. The mandrel of the pop rivet should break off cleanly. Work from one side to the other until all the pop rivets have been installed.
The second piece of edge guard is attached in the same manner. Note, however; as the punched tabs on each end come together be sure the large hole is on top of the smaller hole. When the second edge guard is completely installed, return to where the large hole overlaps the smaller one. Using the #8 X 1/2" hex screws in the bolt box, insert one screw through the large hole and thread into the smaller hole. The screws will cut their own thread which allows the use of simple hand tools.
Continue the process around the outer edge of the antenna until all 16 pieces have been installed.
5.0
CRANING REFLECTOR TO TOWER
| For craning
the antenna Reflector to the Main Mount, the Pinhook Assembly
with Feed Horn
must not be connected to the Pinhook Extension.
If connected the Pinhook and Feed Horn may be damaged.
Locate the four 1-1/2" Pillow Block Bearings. Note how the yoke protrudes further out one side of the bearing. When the bearing is installed, the yoke must face the outside of the Main Mount. Also take note as to the location of the two set screws on each bearing and be sure that while installing the bearings that the sets screws are accessible for tightening after installation of the Antenna Reflector. See figure 51. |
|
| Start by placing the two bearings on one ear of the Main Mount so that the yoke that protrudes out one end of each bearing point to the outside of the Main Mount. Second place the other two bearings on the ear on the opposite side of the Main Mount with the yoke on each bearing facing outward from the Main Mount. Do not tighten the set screws at this time as further adjustment to the position of the bearings is yet to be made. See figure 52. |
|
The crane operator should have a cable suitable for attaching to the Antenna Reflector. This cable should be about 15 feet long with loops or hooks attached to each end. Run this cable from the top of the Pinhook Extension down into the top of the Hub of the Antenna Reflector, under the cross member and then back up along the Pinhook Extension. Pull this cable so there is an equal amount of cable running the length of the Pinhook Extension on both sides. While holding this cable along the length of the Pinhook Extension, use a piece of rope to tie around the cable and the Pinhook Extension. This is to help stabilize the Antenna Reflector while craning it to its resting position on top of the Main Mount.
Next attach four cables or ropes on the Antenna Reflector on or near the joint between the section of the Base Rib and the Point Rib of the rib on four sides of the Antenna Reflector. Place one man on the end of these four cables to help stabilize the antenna while craning into place. The crane operator can now place his crane hook in the loops or hooks of this cable.
Instruct the crane operator to lift the Antenna Reflector Assembly and position it so that the bearings on the Main Mount align with the Bearing Plates that are welded on the bottom side of the Antenna Reflector Hub A-Frame.
While the Antenna Reflector is being held in place by the crane operator, fasten the four bearings in place using the 2-2/1" x 5/8" bolts, nuts and lock washers provided and then tighten the two set screws in each of the four bearings.


Figure 53 2 - 1/2" x 5/8"
With the bearings in place and fully secured, a chain needs to be placed around the bottom of the Antenna Main Mount "T" and the Reflector Hub "T" to secure the antenna until the Elevation Actuator can be installed.
Once the chain is in place, install the two Bearing Safeties over the end of the ears of the Main Mount and secure into place by bolting them to the Reflector Hub "T" as shown in figure below.
Figure 54 Elevation Bearings, Bearing Safeties
6.0 AZIMUTH & ELEVATION DRIVE ACTUATORS
The Elevation Actuator consists of the actuator and the actuator motor and are packed separately. Using the figure below, install the Elevation Actuator using the ¾ x 9" bolts and ¾" nylock nuts and washers provided. See Appendix A-12 for size chart.
Start by slipping two washers over each bolt. Slip the ¾ x 9" bolt through the pivot block at the very end of the actuator. Holding the actuator, continue sliding the 9" bolt through the welded pivot point on the Hub A-frame. Next push the end of the actuator away from the Main Mount until the second pivot point aligns with the holes in the Main Mount A-Frame. Note that the actuator is shipped in the retracted position so it may be necessary to slightly extend the actuator to align the holes. This can be done by using a large flat blade screwdriver and inserting it into the lower end of the actuator and turning. This method will work if the actuator only has to be extended a small amount, i.e. less than an inch. Normally you should not have to extend it further than this if the Antenna Reflector is truly pointing straight up into the sky.
Once the holes line up, slide the other ¾ x 9" bolt through and place the other two flat washers on the bolt. Thread on the ¾" nylock nut on each bolt. Tighten the nuts down so that they are snug, but do not over tighten as this would cause the actuator to bind and place additional stress on the Actuator Motor.
Figure 55 Elevation Actuator
6.1.1 ELEVATION ACTUATOR MOTOR
Slide the Actuator Motor Box with it's cables and switches onto the Actuator Collar and into the Actuator Coupler. Make sure the drive pin of the motor output shaft slides into the slot of the Actuator Input Shaft. While holding the Actuator Motor Box to the actuator, rotate the Actuator Motor Box so that it is right side up (i.e. its widest dimension parallel with the ground) and tighten all 4 set screws.
Once the Elevation Actuator and Actuator Motor Box are installed, remove the safety chain.
CAUTION! After the Elevation Actuator is installed, it is important that the Elevation Actuator Limit Switches are installed.
6.1.2.1 ELEVATION LIMIT SWITCHES
There are two Elevation Actuator
Limit Switches, one for the minimum elevation angle and one for the
maximum elevation angle. These two limit switches are attached to the Elevation
Actuator Motor Box. The minimum Elevation Actuator Limit Switch
is the switch with the mounting bracket. The maximum Elevation Actuator
Limit Switch does not require a bracket.
Figure 56 Elevation Limit Switch
Locate the limit switch marked on the Elevation Actuator Motor Box as "90-degree". With the antenna elevation at 90°, place the limit switch in front of the lower actuator mount located on the 3-1/2" steel frame. Look for the pre drilled holes on the 3-1/2" steel box tube. The limit switch bolts onto the opposite side of the 3-1/2" steel box tubing and the actuator and is positioned so the spring of the limit switch is in it's compressed position under the 2" x 2" steel support bar of the Hub "T". While holding the limit switch in the engaged position, push the bolts through the two lower holes in the limit switch and through the 3-1/2 inch box tube. Reaching into the end of the 3-1/2" box tubing, thread the two nuts onto the bolts and tighten.
Figure 57 Elevation Actuator Motor Box
Figure 58 90° Actuator Limit
CAUTION! Care must be taken while installing the lower Elevation Actuator Limit Switch. Check to find out what the lowest elevation is obtainable at or above 0° with out running into any obstructions that might be in the path of the antenna in elevation and azimuth. If 0° is not obtainable then a elevation look angle of greater than 0° will have to be set.
Locate the limit switch marked "0-degree" on the Elevation Actuator Motor Box. For the proper minimum elevation setting, run the antenna down to the lowest obtainable elevation without hitting any obstructions that might be in the way. Locate the two pre drilled and tapped holes at the top of the Main Mount. Using the (2) 1/4" bolts provided, attach the limit switch bracket to the Main Mount and tighten. The mounting holes for the limit switch on the bracket are slotted to allow adjustment of the limit switch in elevation. Slide the limit switch upward until the switch makes contact with the Hub "T" and you hear the click of the switch closing. Then tighten the mounting bolts holding the limit switch. In some instances, if a higher low elevation look angle is desired, and the limit switch can not be adjusted to obtain that look angle, then the entire Elevation Actuator Limit Switch with bracket can be located higher on the Main Mount.
Figure 59 0° Actuator Limit
CAUTION! The
Elevation
Actuator Motor Limit Switches must be set at the time of installation.
Failure to do so can cause damage to the Elevation Actuator and
Elevation
Actuator Motor Box.
Note: If using the 180 Degree Rotation Drive Unit(Optional), then skip this section and go to Section 7.0 Optional Devices.
At this point you will need to know the general direction of the satellite that is intended to be received.
For antenna's located in the Northern Hemisphere North of the Equator:
Fasten the Azimuth Actuator on the right shaft to receive from the West or on the left shaft to receive from the East.
For antenna's located in the Southern Hemisphere South of the Equator:
Fasten the Azimuth Actuator on the right shaft to receive from the East or on the left shaft to receive from the West.
There are 4 major components to the
Azimuth
Actuator:
|
|
Azimuth Actuator |
|
|
Azimuth Actuator Bearing |
|
|
Bearing Safety |
|
|
Actuator Motor Box |
You will notice that there are
six bolts attached and evenly spaced along one side of the Azimuth Actuator.
These bolts allow for adjustment in placement of the Azimuth Actuator.
The Bearing Safety mounts between these bolts on the Azimuth
Actuator and the Azimuth Actuator Bearing. The Bearing Safety
is mounted over two bolts and is situated so that the angle on the bearing
safety with the large hole is on top and over the Azimuth Actuator Mounting
Shaft.
The Azimuth Actuator with Bearing Safety and Azimuth Actuator Bearing slips over one shaft on the Actuator Mounting Plate and the other end connects to the Main Mount Base Plate with a 6 X 5/8 inch bolt and nut. Once the actuator is in place, tighten down the two set screws in the Azimuth Actuator Bearing.
For maximum safety, the Azimuth Actuator Assembly should be installed on the mounting plate side that allows the actuator to be retracted or in it's shortened position to cover the most commonly used satellites.
For example should the satellite dish antenna point most of the time to the left side of the Clarke belt then the Azimuth Actuator Assembly should be installed on the left side of the Azimuth Actuator Mounting Plate (see A below) or should the satellite antenna point most of the time to the right side of the Clarke belt then the Azimuth Actuator Assembly should be installed on the right side of the Azimuth Actuator Mounting Plate (see B below).
A B
Figure 60 Azimuth Actuator Placement
Once the Azimuth Actuator Assembly is installed you must set the Azimuth Actuator Motor Limit Switches. Run the antenna out slightly past the maximum position in azimuth desired and adjust the limit switch in the motor. Next run the actuator/motor in the opposite direction to the minimum azimuth desired and adjust the limit switch in the motor. The motor will only move to the extent of these limits therefore avoiding any potential for damaging the antenna or actuators.
CAUTION! The
Azimuth
Actuator Limit Switches must be set at the time of installation. Failure
to do so can cause damage to the Azimuth Actuator Assembly.
7.1 180 DEGREE ROTATION DRIVE UNIT OPTION
The D-Ring option is shipped in two containers. One containing the
D-Ring weighing approximately
132 lb. and the other containing the D-Ring Actuator, braces
and bolt pack weighing approximately 240 lb.
7.1.2 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED (not supplied)
1 2 Ton (US) floor jack
1 1/2 inch "open end" wrench
1 3/4 inch "open end" wrench
2 1 1/4 Open end wrench or (2 12 inch adjustable "open end" wrenches)
1 Torque wrench
1 Inclinometer or Level
2 3/4 x 5 inch stainless bolts with anchors
1 3/4 inch masonry bit
1 Drill motor
7.1.3 180° ROTATION DRIVE INSTALLATION
7.1.3.1 ROTATION DRIVE D-RING INSTALLATION
Place the antenna into the Zenith position. In this position the antenna is looking straight up into the sky.
Set the antenna azimuth so that it is centered between it's two most extreme positions.
Note: For retrofit installations the Azimuth Actuator Assembly and Actuator Mount Plate will have to be removed before proceeding with the next step. If the D-Ring is installed at the time of antenna installation, it can be bolted to the bottom of the Main Mount Base Plate before the Main Mount is hoisted into position on the Ground Mount.
Note: There is only two possible ways to attach the D-Ring and both are correct. There is no right side up.
Figure 61 D-Ring & D-Ring Drive Unit
Place a hydraulic floor jack rated to at least 2 tons (4000 US pounds) in front of the Rotation Shaft on the antenna foundation between the foundation and the Main Mount Base Plate.
Begin Raising the jack until the jack meets with the bottom of the Main Mount Base Plate.
Loosen the two set screws on each of the two Leg Mount Bearings.
Remove the four bolts and nuts that secure the Main Mount Base Plate Rotation Bearing.
Continue raising the jack until a clearance of 3/8 of an inch space is formed between the Main Base Plate and the Main Base Plate Rotation Bearing.
Slide the D-Ring under the Main Mount Base Plate above the Main Mount Base Plate Rotation Bearing until the four bearing bolt holes on the D-Ring are aligned with the holes on the Main Mount Base Plate and the Main Mount Base Plate Rotation Bearing.
Replace the four Main Base Plate Rotation Bearing bolts and nuts. Hand tighten. While lowering the jack continue tightening the four Main Base Plate Rotation Bearing bolts.
Note: When finished the four bolts
should be tightened to 75 ft/lb.
7.1.3.2 ROTATION DRIVE GEAR BOX INSTALLATION
Locate the Rotation Drive Motor and the Rotation Drive Gearbox.
Install the Rotation Drive Motor by aligning the input and output shafts so that the motor slides on to the Rotation Drive Gear Box Collar. Thread the set bolt on the collar of the motor and tighten the lock nut.
Position the Rotation Drive Gear Box Assembly between the properly aligned Main Mount Leg Mount Plates. The distance between the face of the Rotation Drive Gear Box angle and the D-Ring channel edge should be approximately 1.050 inches. This will vary slightly. Center and mark the seven holes in the Rotation Drive Gear Box Assembly angle iron. Temporarily remove the assembly. Using a heavy duty rotary hammer and an 11/16 inch masonry bit, drill to a depth of 5 1/8 inches. Thoroughly clean out the hole by means of a wire brush and or air to remove all the dust particles. (Wear safety glasses). Should you encounter any rebar before reaching the desired depth, use a conventional drill motor and a 11/16 inch drill bit to remove the rebar. Finish the balance of the hole with the rotary hammer drill.
We recommend the use of Hilti P/N HEA 5/8X% adhesive capsules and P/N SS58-758 anchor bolts. Telesat has however an optional anchor and adhesive kit available for purchase with the D-ring assemblies. Prices are available upon request. Once you are prepared to install the anchor, gently place the adhesive capsule in the clean hole, round end down. Thread onto the anchor two hex nuts. Use a 15/16 inch socket shaft that will fit a good quality 1/2 drill motor. Place the pointed end (45° ) above the anchor over the capsule and lower the anchor with just enough force to shatter the capsule. (We recommend the use of safety glasses.) Begin spinning the anchor with the drill motor and socket. Adjust the speed of the drill motor to preclude spinning the adhesive out of the holes. Apply a downward pressure until the anchor reaches the stop groove cut into the anchor. Follow the recommended drying time as per Hilti specifications. Once the anchor adhesive has cured on all anchors, place the gear box assembly back over the anchors and secure with the washers and nuts provided with the anchors.
Uncoil the Rotation Drive Chain and route down each side of the D-Ring Channel. Slide threaded end of the chain adjustment bolt through the hole at each end of the D-Ring Channel. Remove all nuts except for one adjuster nut on the chain adjuster and slide through the adjuster mounting hole. Thread tension nut onto chain adjuster and tighten until the chain lays snug against the inside wall of the D-Ring Channel to 40 ft/lb.. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Thread jam nut onto adjuster and tighten against tension nut. Repeat procedure for the chain tensioner on opposite side of the D-Ring.
Note: Chain must be checked weekly for the first month and then at three month intervals to make sure the chain remains tight.
Using the multi purpose grease provided, thoroughly coat the chain on both sides of the Rotation Drive Unit.
Hard wire in your control motor and potentiometer feedback circuit.
Figure 62 D-Ring Installed
7.1.3.3 ROTATION DRIVE SUPPORT ARM INSTALLATION
At this point, the three D-Ring Support Arms must be attached to the D-Ring.
Note: The importance of these three D-Ring Support Arms is to help support the D-Ring and to hold it centered on the Rotation Drive Gear Box and to avoid any undue stress on the Rotation Drive Chain. When mounting the upper end of the D-Ring Support Arms, it is essential to move the azimuth of the antenna so that the D-Ring Support Arm that is being attached is centered on the Rotation Drive Gear Box. This way the D-Ring can be held center on the Rotation Drive Gear Box while attaching the upper end of the D-Ring Support Arm to the Main Mount.
Figure 63 D-Ring Support Arm Mounting Holes
Start by locating the three pre drilled
holes on the D-Ring. Attach one end of the three D-Ring Support
Arms to the to these holes on the D-Ring using a 5/16 x 1" bolt
and nut in each. Position the D-Ring Support Arm so that it angles
upward towards and leans against the Main Mount. Rotate the D-Ring
so that one D-Ring Support Arm is centered in front of the Rotation
Drive Gear Box. While holding the D-Ring center on the Rotation
Drive Gear Box, place a mark through the mounting hole on the upper
end of D-Ring Support Arm on the Main Mount. With a drill
and a 5/16" drill bit, drill a hole into the Main Mount where you
placed the mark. Tap the hole using a 5/16" tap and attach the arm to the
Main Mount using a 5/16 x 1" bolt and tighten. Proceed with the remaining
two D-Ring Support Arms in the same manner as the first.
7.1.3.4 ROTATION DRIVE AZIMUTH LIMIT SWITCH INSTALLATION
CAUTION! Do not attempt to set the limits to 190° if you do not have the modified 190° Main Mount Legs.
Locate the two 3/8" by 5" azimuth limit bolts and the four 3/8" nuts for the D-Ring Limit Switches, these will be installed in one of three positions:
1) The standard 180 Degree rotation.
2) The extended 190 Degree rotation.
3) Customer desired location.
Figure 64 D-Ring
These bolts trip the limit switches on the Rotation Drive Assembly to interrupt current to the motor and prevent the Rotation Drive Assembly from going past the physical limits. These are normally set for 180° of full travel but can be also set for the optional 190 degrees or any customer location; such as to limit the physical travel of the Satellite Antenna Assembly.
Place the 3/8" nut on the 3/8" by 5" bolt and run it down till it is about 2" from the bolt head, place the 3/8" by 5" bolt with the 3/8" nut through the pre drilled hole on the D-Ring in the proper location as shown in this drawing:
Place the other 3/8" nut on the bottom on this bolt and tighten, make sure that the bottom of the bolt is above the concrete Ground Mount but still low enough to make contact with the limit switch whisker arm.
Note: The right limit switch is for right limit and left limit switch is for left limit.
To set the limit switches for a customer desired position such as
to limit the Satellite Antenna Assembly from hitting another structure
or object, rotate the antenna to the desired position you wish to limit
the position, drill a 3/8" hole directly above the limit switch arm and
insert the 3/8" by 5" bolt as mentioned previously; make sure that this
bolt is installed between the two limit switch arms and not outside of
them; otherwise the limit switches will not operate properly.
CAUTION! Do Not operate the Satellite Antenna Assembly Azimuth Rotation Drive Limit Switch bolts below the top of the concrete line of the Ground Mount; otherwise the limit switch bolts could be bent and damaged making them difficult to remove.
CAUTION! Do Not operate the Satellite Antenna Azimuth Rotation Drive Assembly without the limit switch bolts installed or install the limit switch bolts for the 190 Degree rotation if you do not have the proper support arms, otherwise damage to the Azimuth Rotation Drive Assembly will occur.
Figure 65 D-Ring Lay out
Each deicer unit is 120 volts at 560 watts. The deicer unit can operate on 120 volts and either 50 or 60 cycles. There are eight units per antenna. If operating on 120 volts there will be eight circuits, however, if run on 220 volts there will be 4 circuits run in parallel with two circuits which are connected in series.
Figure 66 Deicer Schematic
Note: A remote disconnect switch may also be added in line after the breaker disconnect and before the de-icer cables.
A circuit breaker disconnect is mounted to the front side of the antenna. The junction box is mounted on the antenna between Rib #8 and Rib #9.
All wiring and grounding needs to be done to local code requirements. Connect cable inside junction box for either 120 or 220 volt operation.
Beginning with the cable coming out
of the junction box and starting at the hub first, lay the cable on the
side of the rib under the screen and go approximately 40 to 45 inches until
the first turn. See 80' Heat Coil Layout Diagram. Now zig zag back and
forth allowing approximately 1 foot between each turn of the cable. Using
the plastic ties that are provided, push the cable tie through the diamond
of the mesh from the back side, come over the cable and back through another
diamond as near the cable as possible. Space the cable ties approximately
8 inches apart as shown on the drawing. When you have reached the halfway
point, which should be at the outside rim of the antenna, be sure that
cable is approximately 6 1/4 inches in from the outer most edge of the
antenna. Continue the cable along the next section returning to the hub
and the end of the first cable as shown in the figure 67 Deicer Cable Layout.
Begin the second cable in the next
section and follow the same pattern style as you did with the first cable.
Do this with all cables until they have all been installed.
The Telesat 7.5 meter antenna consists of two basic components.
The antenna reflector and motorized AZ/El mount. This AZ/El mount allows
for positioning the antenna on two separate axis, one for azimuth and one
for elevation. Below is the maximum movement obtainable on both axis.
| Elevation | 0° to 90° |
| Azimuth(standard) | 60° |
| Azimuth(D-Ring) | 186° |
| Azimuth(D-Ring with modified mount) | 194° |
CAUTION!
Both actuators are supplied with mechanical limit switches to prevent over
travel of the antenna beyond these limits. However if these limit switches
are not functional or properly adjusted, damage will occur to the antenna,
actuators and anything else which may possibly lay in the path of the actuators
movement.
Limit switches for the elevation actuator are mounted directly to the antenna mount and are adjusted to give a minimum elevation at or above 0° and a maximum elevation of 90°.
If the standard azimuth actuator which provides 60° movement in azimuth is installed, the limit switches are installed inside the cover of the actuator's motor. If a D-Ring actuator is installed, these limit switches are located on the actuators main mount. The switches have a long whisker attached to each of them which protrude out and under the edge of the D-Ring. Long bolts are mounted into the D-Ring to trigger these to switches.
CAUTION! Any positioning of the antenna should not be performed until these limit switches have been adjusted, except for what is required to adjust and test them. Please refer to installation manual for proper procedures for adjusting the limit switches. Telesat assumes no liability for damage incurred due to improper adjustment of the actuator limit switches.
To position the antenna, a motor control unit must be used to provide power to the actuators. This can be either a manual actuator controller or and a computer controlled actuator controller such as the Telesat 'Sync-Track' system.
Which ever controller is used, it must be capable of supplying a continuous 36 volts DC a 5 amps and the ability to switch polarity internally to the motor to provide movement of the actuator in both directions.
NOTE: For operation of the Telesat 'Sync-Track' system, please
refer to the 'Sync-Track' manual. For operation of the actuator controller
used, refer to the instruction manual of the controller being used.
8.2 POSITIONING ANTENNA TO DESIRED SATELLITE
Before the antenna can be positioned to a satellite, the satellite's azimuth and elevation must be known. There are several software packages available to perform the calculation of finding the satellite azimuth and elevation. One such package is included with the Telesat 'Sync-Track' system. If this is not available you can use the formula below.
X = Satellite Longitude of desired satellite, X1 = Site Longitude, Y1 = Site Latitude
Satellite Azimuth =
( 180 + 57.29578 · ATAN( TAN ( ( X ¸ 57.29578 ) - ( X1 ¸ 57.29578 ) ) ¸ SINE( Y1 ¸ 57.29578 ) ) )
Satellite Elevation =
57.29578 · ATAN( ( COS( ( X ¸ 57.29578 ) - ( X1 ¸ 57.29578 ) ) · COS( Y1¸ 57.29578 ) - 15126 ) ¸Ö ( SIN( ( X ¸ 57.29578) - ( X1 ¸ 57.29578)) · SINE( ( X ¸ 57.29578) - ( X1 ¸ 57.29578 ) ) + COS( ( X ¸ 57.29578 ) - ( X1 ¸ 57.29578 ) ) · COS( ( X ¸ 57.29578) - ( X1 ¸ 57.29578 ) ) ) )
Once the azimuth and elevation of the desired satellite has been determined use the controller provided to position the antenna. The easiest way is to begin with the elevation first then swing the azimuth back and forth until the satellite is found.
8.3 PEAKING ANTENNA FOR OPTIMUM SIGNAL STRENGTH
Once the satellite is found, peaking up to obtain the best signal can be performed by jogging the elevation and the azimuth back and forth until the highest signal strength is obtained. Signal strength can be measured in a number of ways. Most satellite receivers have a built in signal strength meter. If you are using the Telesat 'Sync Track' system, it has a built in signal strength indicator. If this is not the case, you can use a power meter or any other device for measuring signal strength that you have readily available. i.e. TV Monitor.
Additionally, if using a circular
feed, adjusting the polarity will also increase signal strength. For feed
horns with built in polar rotors, a polar rotor controller is required.
For feeds without a polar rotor built in, you can change the polarity by
removing the LNB from the feed and rotating it 90° left or right and
then re-install it.
CAUTION! The survivability of the antenna depends on the proper installation, maintenance and operation of the antenna. Poor or improper procedures used during these practices may seriously jeopardize the operability and survivability of the antenna.
The 7.5 meter antenna was designed to operate in winds up to 62.5 mph. If the antenna is in any other elevation setting other than 90°, it is considered to be in an operating state. When sustained winds are expected to reach 62.5 mph and greater, the antenna must be stowed to prevent any damage that may occur if it were left in an operable state. To do this, simply move the antenna's elevation so that the antenna is pointing to 90° or straight up into the sky.
NOTE: Telesat assumes no liability if proper operation of
the satellite antenna is not strictly adhered to.
Installation and first time inspection, servicing and testing of the antenna and associated equipment is performed by contractor personnel.
Preventive maintenance consists of inspection, cleaning, lubricating, repairing and or replacing of antenna mechanical and or electrical components.
Preventative maintenance should be performed at the time of installation and then at periodic intervals as prescribed below.
Preventive maintenance for equipment listed must be performed.
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
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W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Inspect the
bearing for rust, cracks and insure that mounting bolts securing bearing
are tight. (100 ft/lb.)
Replace any defective component. Attach a grease gun to the zerk fitting on the bearing and fill with a good multi-purpose grease until full. Note: this is a sealed bearing and grease will not squeeze out through the seals. Also apply a generous amount of grease over the seals and in the bearing cups. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
Main mount bearing on rotation plate under tower. |
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Inspect each
bearing for rust, cracks and insure that mounting bolts securing the bearing
are tight. (100 ft/lb.)
Replace any defective component. Attach a grease gun to the zerk fitting
on the bearing and fill with a good multi-purpose grease until full. Note:
this is a sealed bearing and grease will not squeeze out through the seals.
Also apply a generous amount of grease over the seals and in the bearing
cups.
WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any
automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
Main Post Bearings (4)
Pillow Block Bearing
|
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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· |
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Inspect each
bearing for rust, cracks and insure that mounting bolts securing the bearing
are tight. (100 ft/lb.)
Replace any defective component. Attach a grease gun to the zerk fitting
on the bearing and fill with a good multi-purpose grease until full. Note:
this is a sealed bearing and grease will not squeeze out through the seals.
Also apply a generous amount of grease over the seals and in the bearing
cups.
WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any
automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
Pillow Block Flanged Bottom Bearing Top Bearing
Main Post Bearings |
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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· |
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Check the
chain for defects or cracks. Repair or replace if any are found.
Check that the chain is properly adjusted and not loose. If chain is loose, refer to installation instructions on how to adjust the chain. Check for any rust on the chain. If rust is found, remove using a wire brush, steel wool or emery cloth. Check to see that chain is well lubricated. If the chain needs lubrication, use
a good multi - purpose grease and apply a generous amount of grease to
the entire length of the chain.
WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
|
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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The rotation
drive gear box needs to be checked to insure the proper fluid level is
maintained.
To determine the level in the gear box, remove the fill plug and insert a wooden dowel. The level of gear oil should be between 1/2 and 3/4 full. If the oil is low, add additional 50 weight gear oil to bring it to proper level. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
|
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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· |
(Rust) |
Check for any
bare metal (steel not galvanized) for rust. Suggested areas to check would
be around bearings, on the actuators and on or near joints that are bolted
together.
On the steel surfaces remove any rust from the affected area using steel wool or a medium grit sand paper. Apply a generous coat of rust inhibiting paint to the affected area such as a zinc based paint. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion. |
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Check to insure
that all structural bolts are tight.
All 3/4 inch bolts should be tightened to 100 ft./lb.. and all 5/8 inch bolts should be tightened to 75 ft./lb.. Note: Do not attempt to tighten any bolt that fastens to pieces of aluminum, or aluminum and steel to greater than 12 ft./lb.. If done this will crush the material. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion. |
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Inspection
of all connectors should be performed.
Inspect all connectors and connections for any defect and or corrosion. Replace any connector found to be defective or corroded. Check all cable for any cuts or abrasions that penetrate through the outer jacket. Repair or replace any damaged cable. All connectors/ splices in cable exposed to the weather need to be protected against corrosion. Check to insure that all connections are covered with a good water sealant. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
|
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Inspect the
rubber boots on the elevation and azimuth actuators for any defect such
as tears and rips.
Inspect the rubber boots on both of the azimuth rotation drive units limit switches for any defect such as tears and rips. Replace any rubber boot found to be defective. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
|
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Inspect the
feed horn support cables to insure there are no defects in the cables or
the tensioners attached. Look for broken or frayed cables.
Replace any cable found to be defective. Refer to the section 4.10 FEED HORN SUPPORT CABLES installation and adjustment. Inspect the feed horn support cables to insure proper adjustment. The feed horn support cables provide additional support for the pinhook and feed horn. Refer to the section 4.10 FEED HORN SUPPORT CABLES installation and adjustment. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion.
|
W - Weekly, Q - Quarterly, S - Semi-Annual,
A - Annual
| Item No. |
W Q S A |
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Walk around
the entire antenna looking for any damage to any of the antenna's structural
members. Look for broken welds, cracks in the steel or aluminum structural
members. Look for any structural member that is crushed or bent.
Any component found to be damaged should be repaired or replaced to maintain the structural integrity of the antenna structure. WARNING To prevent injury, disconnect any automatic tracking equipment that may place antenna into motion. |
Top Slab Lay
Out
Base Lay Out
20 Degree 7.5m
Mount
0 Degree 7.5m
Mount
Main Mount
Counter Balance
1
Counter Balance
2
Pinhook Support
Lay Out
180 Degree
Rotation Settings
Rib To Hub
Wind Brace
/ Cable Lay Out
Bolt Sizing
Chart 1
Bolt Sizing
Chart 2
TOP SLAB LAY OUT
BASE LAY OUT
20 DEGREE 7.5M MOUNT
0 DEGREE 7.5M MOUNT
MAIN MOUNT
COUNTER BALANCE 1
COUNTER BALANCE 2
PINHOOK SUPPORT LAY OUT

180 DEGREE ROTATION SETTINGS
RIB TO HUB

WIND BRACE / CABLE LAY OUT
BOLT SIZING CHART 1
BOLT SIZING CHART 2
© Copyright 2000 TeleSat International, Ltd. All rights reserved.